Quick answer
Drip edge is a strip of bent metal flashing installed along a roof's eaves and rake edges that carries water off the edge of the roof and away from the fascia and the deck beneath.
The International Residential Code requires it on shingle roofs, sets how far it must overlap and extend, and says whether the underlayment goes over or under it at each edge.
Quick facts
- Where
- Eaves (bottom edges) and rakes (sloped gable edges)
- Required on
- Shingle roofs, IRC R905.2.8.5 3
- Overlap between pieces
- At least 2 inches 3
- Extends
- At least ¼ inch below the sheathing and 2 inches up onto the deck 3
- Fastened
- To the deck at no more than 12 inches on center 3
- Material
- Corrosion-resistant metal 1
- Common profiles
- L-style, D-style (T-style) and gutter apron
Key takeaways
- Drip edge is a bent metal strip along the bottom and side edges of a roof that sends water away from the wood behind it.
- The building code requires it on shingle roofs, at both eaves and rakes.
- It must reach at least 2 inches onto the deck and at least ¼ inch below it, with joints overlapped 2 inches.
- Underlayment goes over the drip edge at the eaves and under it at the rakes.
- Missing or rusted drip edge often shows up as rot along the fascia and the edge of the deck.
What drip edge does
Water running off a roof wants to curl back under the last course of shingles and soak the edge of the deck and the fascia board behind it. Drip edge stops that.
Its vertical face holds the water out from the fascia, and its lower lip, kicked out slightly, drops the water clear into the gutter or onto the ground.
The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association calls the kicked-out lower lip a "kickout" and recommends it so water is not directed onto the wood behind 1. It does two other jobs.
It supports the shingle overhang so the edge does not sag and crack, and it closes the gap between the deck and the fascia that insects, wind-driven rain and small animals use to get into the roof.
How the layers work together
Every layer on a roof laps the layer below it the way water flows, like the shingles themselves. At the eave, water runs down the underlayment and must land on top of the drip edge, so the underlayment goes over it.
On a rake, water can be blown sideways under the edge, so the drip edge goes over the underlayment to cap it. Reverse either one and the joint funnels water into the deck instead of off it.
Where an ice barrier is required at the eaves, it is part of this same stack: it laps over the eave drip edge and runs up the roof to at least 24 inches inside the wall line.
The order of layers at the roof edge
Every layer at the edge laps over the one below it in the direction water flows. From the deck up, the code and the shingle makers' association describe this order 3 1:
| Layer (bottom to top) | At the eave | At the rake |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Roof deck (sheathing) | Bottom layer | Bottom layer |
| 2. Drip edge | Fastened to the deck first | Goes on after the underlayment |
| 3. Underlayment or ice barrier | Laid over the drip edge | Laid under the drip edge |
| 4. Starter strip | Along the eave edge | Often along the rake too, by maker's instructions |
| 5. Shingles | Top layer, overhanging the drip edge slightly | Top layer |
If you can see the edge of your roof from a ladder at the gutter, the drip edge should be visible under the first row of shingles, tight against the fascia, with no gap behind it.
Drip edge profiles
| Profile | Shape | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| L-style (Type C) | A simple 90° bend: one leg on the deck, one down the fascia | Rakes, and eaves on low-budget work |
| D-style (Type D, T-style) | Like the L but with a kicked-out lower lip that throws water away from the fascia | Eaves; the common default on reroofs |
| Gutter apron (Type F) | A longer roof leg and a down-turned face that reaches into the gutter | Eaves with gutters, and on reroofs where the original was missing |
Type letters are trade shorthand and are not used consistently between suppliers; describe the shape when you compare quotes.
Types of metal: aluminum vs galvanized steel
Aluminum
- Will not rust; good near salt air
- Light and easy to cut
- Dents more easily from ladders and gutter work
Galvanized steel
- Stiffer, holds its line on long runs
- Can rust at cut edges and scratches once the coating is broken
- Do not mix with copper flashing or aluminum gutters in contact without a separator
Worked example: how much drip edge a roof needs
A plain gable roof over a 40 × 30-foot house, with 1-foot overhangs and a 6/12 pitch:
| Edge | How it is measured | Length |
|---|---|---|
| Eaves (2 sides) | 2 × (40 ft + 2 ft overhang) | 84 ft |
| Rakes (4 sloped edges) | 4 × (16 ft level run × 1.118 for 6/12) | 71.6 ft |
| Total drip edge | Eaves + rakes | about 156 ft |
Every joint between pieces must overlap at least 2 inches 3, so the roofer orders a little more than the measured length. Illustrative house; the 1.118 multiplier is the exact slope factor for 6/12.
Drip edge and gutters
Drip edge and gutters are two halves of one job: the drip edge throws water off the roof, and the gutter catches it. If the gutter hangs too low, or too far out from the fascia, water can fall in the gap between them and soak the fascia anyway.
That is where the gutter apron profile helps. Its longer face reaches down into the gutter, so water has nowhere to go but in.
If you are replacing gutters and the roof at different times, tell the second contractor what the first one installed, so the two fit together.
Our gutter sizing tool helps you match gutter size to your roof area.
Benefits of drip edge
- Keeps water from soaking the fascia board and the edge of the roof deck, where rot starts
- Supports the shingle overhang so the edge does not sag or crack
- Directs water into the gutter instead of behind it
- Closes the gap at the roof edge against wind-driven rain, insects and small animals
- Meets the code requirement on shingle roofs, which matters at final inspection
What drip edge cannot do
- It cannot fix rot that is already there. Damaged wood must be replaced first.
- It does not replace gutters. It moves water off the roof; gutters carry it away from the house.
- It does not stop ice dams. In cold areas the eave also needs an ice barrier, and the attic needs good ventilation.
- It only works in the right order with the underlayment. Installed backwards, it can funnel water into the deck.
Drip edge on your roofing quote
- It is usually a linear-foot line (total eave plus rake length), not part of the per-square shingle price. Ask whether it is included.
- On a reroof, ask whether the old drip edge is being replaced or reused. Bent or corroded pieces cannot hold the 2-inch overlap the code calls for.
- Ask for the metal and finish: aluminum, galvanized steel or copper, and whether it is painted to match the fascia or gutters.
- If your house has none today, a reroof is the time to add it. On a shingle roof it is a code item 2, and an inspector may flag its absence.
How a crew installs drip edge
This is what you should see happen on a reroof. It is not a do-it-yourself guide; roof-edge work is a fall risk, and workers six feet or more up must be protected from falling 4.
- The old drip edge comes off with the tear-off, and the deck edge is checked for rot.
- New drip edge goes along the eaves first, fastened to the deck no more than 12 inches apart 3.
- Pieces overlap at least 2 inches where they meet, with the uphill piece over the downhill one 3.
- Underlayment and, in cold areas, the ice barrier go down over the eave drip edge.
- Drip edge then goes along the rakes, over the underlayment.
- Shingles go on, starting with the starter strip at the eave.
What to check as the roof ages
- Drip edge present along every eave and every rake on a shingle roof 3
- Joints overlapped at least 2 inches, not butted end to end
- The face extends at least ¼ inch below the deck, so water drips clear of the wood
- Fasteners no more than 12 inches apart, and no loose or bent sections
- Underlayment over the drip edge at eaves and under it at rakes
- No rust, holes or crushed sections from ladders or gutter brackets
Warning signs that drip edge is missing or failing
- Rot or dark staining along the bottom of the fascia or the edge of the deck, visible from the attic
- Water running behind the gutter instead of into it
- Shingle edges sagging or cracked along the eave
- Peeling paint on the fascia under the roof edge
- If Rot or stain along the fascia
- Then Possible missing or short drip edge. Ask a roofer to check from a ladder; the cause is not confirmed until then.
- If Water running behind the gutter
- Then Ask whether drip edge or gutter apron is missing at that spot.
- If Sagging or cracked shingle edge
- Then Possible soft deck at the eave. Ask for it to be checked during the quote.
- If Peeling paint under the roof edge
- Then Often water at the edge. Have the drip edge and gutter checked together.
Each row is a reason to ask, not a diagnosis. Rot behind the fascia can only be judged once the edge is opened.
When the roof edge has already rotted
A roof that went years without drip edge, or with a bent or rusted one, often has soft wood along the bottom of the deck and the fascia.
You can sometimes see it from the attic as dark, stained boards right at the eave, or from outside as peeling paint and crumbling wood behind the gutter.
Drip edge cannot be nailed into rotten wood and expected to hold. The damaged strip of deck has to be cut out and replaced, and the fascia board repaired or replaced, before new drip edge goes on.
On a full reroof this is usually priced per sheet of deck and per foot of fascia. On a smaller job it falls under edge and flashing repair.
Either way, ask the roofer to photograph the damage before they cover it up, so you can see what you paid for and keep a record for any future insurance claim or home sale.
What the code requires
The 2021 International Residential Code sets out drip edge in one section, R905.2.8.5. Most states adopt the IRC, sometimes with amendments, so your building department's adopted edition is the one that applies.
| Rule | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Where it is required | At eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs |
| Overlap at joints | Adjacent pieces overlapped not less than 2 inches |
| Down past the deck | Not less than ¼ inch below the roof sheathing |
| Up onto the deck | Not less than 2 inches |
| Fastening | Mechanically fastened to the deck at not more than 12 inches on center |
| Underlayment at eaves | Installed over the drip edge |
| Underlayment at rakes | Installed under the drip edge |
Sources: [3]
Drip edge vs the other parts at the roof edge
| Part | What it is | Its job |
|---|---|---|
| Drip edge | Bent metal strip on the deck edge | Throws water clear of the fascia and deck |
| Gutter apron | A drip edge with a longer face | Sends water straight into the gutter |
| Fascia | The board along the ends of the rafters | Closes the roof edge; gutters hang on it |
| Starter strip | The first row of shingle material at the eave | Seals the first course and fills the gaps under it |
| Ice barrier | Self-adhering membrane at the eave | Stops water backed up by ice from reaching the deck |
Common misconceptions
- Myth Drip edge is optional trim.
- Reality On shingle roofs it is a code requirement at eaves and rakes, not decoration.
- Myth Gutters make drip edge unnecessary.
- Reality Gutters catch water; drip edge stops it running back under the shingles first. Shingle roofs need both.
- Myth The old drip edge can always be reused.
- Reality Bent, rusted or short pieces cannot make the 2-inch overlap the code requires. Most reroofs replace it.
- Myth It goes the same way at every edge.
- Reality Underlayment goes over it at the eaves and under it at the rakes.
Local code and drip edge
The drip edge rule on this page comes from the 2021 International Residential Code. States and cities adopt the code on their own schedule and can amend it, so an older house may have been built under a code that did not require drip edge.
When you reroof, the work is usually inspected under the code your building department uses today. Ask your roofer which edition applies where you live, and whether the inspector checks the roof edge.
In cold areas, the eave also needs the ice barrier, which the shingle makers' association recommends running 24 inches inside the interior wall line 5.
What to ask your roofer about drip edge
- Is new drip edge included at every eave and rake, and is it on the quote as its own line?
- Which profile will you use at the eaves, and will it work with my gutters?
- What metal and finish is it, and does it match my fascia or gutter color?
- Will you replace or reuse the old drip edge?
- If you find rot at the roof edge, how will you price the repair?
Keep going
- Roof replacementDrip edge is replaced as part of a full reroof
- Roof repairFixing edge rot and failed flashing
- Gutter servicesDrip edge and gutters work as one system
- Gutter calculatorSize gutters for your roof
Questions about drip edge
Is drip edge required by code?
On shingle roofs, yes, wherever your jurisdiction has adopted a recent International Residential Code. Section R905.2.8.5 of the 2021 IRC requires drip edge at eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs. Local amendments can change it, so your building department has the final word.
Does drip edge go over or under the underlayment?
Both, depending on the edge. Under the 2021 IRC the underlayment goes over the drip edge along the eaves and under the drip edge along the rakes, unless the shingle manufacturer specifies otherwise. The goal is that every lap sheds water outward.
Can drip edge be added without replacing the roof?
It can, but it is awkward: the first course of shingles and the underlayment have to be lifted to slide the drip edge under them without cracking the shingles. It is far simpler and cheaper to do during a reroof.
Is drip edge the same as a gutter apron?
A gutter apron is one type of drip edge, with a longer face that reaches down into the gutter. All of them do the same job of carrying water off the roof edge.
How far should drip edge overhang the fascia?
The code sets it against the deck, not the fascia: at least a quarter inch below the roof sheathing and 2 inches up onto the deck. The kick-out on a D-style profile then holds the water off the fascia face.
Do I need drip edge on a metal roof?
The drip edge rule in R905.2.8.5 sits in the code section for asphalt shingles. Metal roof systems use the panel maker's own eave and rake trim, which does the same job of carrying water off the edge. Follow the metal manufacturer's installation details.
Is drip edge needed if I have gutters?
Yes, on a shingle roof. Gutters catch water, but they do not stop it curling back under the shingles and onto the deck edge and fascia. The code requires drip edge at eaves and rakes of shingle roofs whether or not there are gutters.
What color should drip edge be?
Any color; it is a looks choice. Most roofers match it to the fascia or the gutters so it disappears, or to the shingles. Ask for prefinished metal rather than painting it on site, which wears off faster.
Sources
- Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association, "Installation of Drip Edge at Eaves and Rakes" (May 6, 2025), retrieved .
- International Code Council, 2021 IRC §R905.2 Asphalt shingles, base flashing and drip edge fastening (read at UpCodes), retrieved .
- International Code Council, 2021 International Residential Code §R905.2.8.5 Drip edge (Maryland adoption, read at UpCodes), retrieved .
- OSHA, 29 CFR 1926.501(b) Duty to have fall protection (read at Cornell LII), retrieved .
- Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association, "Protecting Against Damage from Ice Dams" (Aug 27, 2024), retrieved .
Expert review
Written by the HyreRoof editorial team. Not yet reviewed by an outside expert. We say so rather than imply a review that has not happened; see our editorial policy.
How the numbers were checked: Code text read verbatim in the 2021 IRC as adopted in Maryland; profile names described by shape because supplier type letters vary.
Suggest a correction. We fix errors and say what changed.